Saturday, 21 May 2011

Erfurt

The Erfurt Gang


Today was a very pleasant and relaxed day. We even got to sleep in a little bit, AND despite the students' grieving over the fact that the Mainzerhof Hotel Breakfast Extravaganza was a thing of the past, this hotel - The Radisson BLU - actually upped the ante! We had originally planned to spend the night at a hotel in Eisenach, but they ended up not having enough room for us, so the travel agent switched us to this 4-star hotel free of charge... one reason we keep using our favorite travel agent.
Just a little sample of breakfast

We came to Erfurt to tour the Augustinian Monastery where Luther lived from 1505 to 1511. It is now used as a non-profit ecumenical center, but was, like Luther, Catholic in origin. Erfurt is one of the few cities in Europe during the Reformation where both Catholics and Protestants got along and coexisted peacefully. During his time there, Luther was ordained a priest in the Cathedral of Erfurt, which is a little ways away from the monastery, and gave his first mass at the church on May 2, 1507. It was hard to conceive that we were walking on the same ground where Luther began his work that brought about the religion we've always known to exist. The tour was rather humorous as we knew only a little German, while the guide knew even less English. Thankfully, there were two men in our group that knew enough of both languages to get us through with at least some understanding.

WWII memorial in the monastery basement, and the 2008 Nagel Kreuz, or Coventry Cross of Nails

While the monastery is well known primarily because of Luther, the monastery also serves as a memorial to the terrors of World War Two. The library was destroyed by Allied bombing on February 25, 1945, killing 267 people that were using it as a bomb shelter -- leaving only one survivor. This was but one of the 14 times Erfurt was bombed by the allies during World War II, but the February 25 attack was the one that destroyed 74% of the medieval city center and killed 8,800 civilians -- over 20% of the town's population.

Coventry Litany of Reconciliation

All have sinned and fallen short of the glory of God.

The hatred which divides nation from nation, race from race, class from class,
Father, forgive.

The covetous desires of people and nations to possess what is not their own,
Father, forgive.

The greed which exploits the work of human hands and lays waste the earth,
Father, forgive.

Our envy of the welfare and happiness of others,
Father, forgive.

Our indifference to the plight of the imprisoned, the homeless, the refugee,
Father, forgive.

The lust which dishonours the bodies of men, women and children,
Father, forgive.

The pride which leads us to trust in ourselves and not in God,
Father, forgive.

Be kind to one another, tender hearted, forgiving one another, as God in Christ forgave you.


Building connected to the monastery, one of Erfurt's oldest surviving structures

In the afternoon we walked around downtown Erfurt, a very quaint, picture-perfect European town. For dinner, we ate at Christoffel, a medieval-themed restaurant with a rich history. The atmosphere was lots of fun as we feasted on lots of meat and dumplings, clapped along to live music, and rose our mugs to good health many a time just to have an excuse to make a lot of noise. After we were all done eating, our large group split into many small groups, and each went their separate ways. One group coincidentally stumbled upon the before mentioned Cathedral of Erfurt, also known as St. Mary's Cathedral, and got there right in time to attend the Taizé service. (A Taizé service is one in which Catholics and Protestants of all denominations come together and worship through moments of prolonged silence, scripture readings, and song.) While they said the service was unique and awesome in of itself, they were blown away by the church itself. They thought its grandeur and beauty was comparable to even that of the Wartburg Castle, if not even greater. It was so large and massive, yet its gothic architecture gave it a complex simplicity that was literally breath-taking. After a whole day in Erfurt, few of the students are anxious to leave this little city as we head off to Berlin tomorrow.
St. Mary's Cathedral

Eisenach : From Luther to Bach


Eisenach Train Station

Eisenach... but where/which way do we go?


When in doubt, follow the signs

Today was by far the busiest day of the trip thus far. We left the Mainzerhof Hotel (and its amazing breakfast buffet) at 7:00 AM and took a long train ride to Eisenach -- home to one of Luther's childhood homes, the Wartburg castle where Luther lived in hiding for 10 months, and to the museum of Johann Sebastian Bach, the famous Baroque musician and composer. Through the train windows, we got the chance to see rural Germany in all its simplistic beauty. The lush vegetation and open fields were reminiscent of both Vermont and Pennsylvania.

Luther House, Where Young Martin Lived for Several Years as a Pupil

Painting of Young Luther Singing and the Lutherhaus Windows Today
(note the window detail in the upper right of the painting)

Relief of the White Rose Emblem in the Eisenach Lutherhaus

Relief of Luther in the Eisenach Lutherhaus

Once we arrived in Eisenach, we headed to the Luther House where Martin Luther lived from 1498 to 1501. During his time in Eisenach, he took care of children and sang in a choir. It was here that he had to decide whether to become a lawyer like his father hoped for, or a priest/monk. It was his decision to become a monk that led him away from Eisenach to Erfurt, where we will be staying tonight.

After completing our quick tour of the Luther House we grabbed Thuringian Sausages (okay, really: long bratwursts) for lunch at an outside stand.

Thuringian Sausage Man Gets His Largest Order of the Day

Mr. Behnke Apologizes to All You Germans for Putting Ketchup on
What Was Designed to Be a Medium Exclusively for Mustard

Wartburg Castle

After lunch we took a shuttle up to the Wartburg castle. Last year's students hiked up the hill, apparently attempting to do it "the way Luther would have" rather than with technological aids. According to some students, the castle was the most awesome sight they'd ever seen in real life. It really is better in reality than in the following pictures, but still...

Interior Buildings of the Wartburg Castle

This was Luther's hideaway starting in May of 1521 when he was lovingly captured under the order of Frederick the Wise on his way back to Wittenburg from Worms (from whence many assumed he would receive the treatment given to Jan Hus). He went by the name of Knight George while in hiding, and translated the New Testament from Greek to German in less than three weeks, wrote several documents regarding his beliefs and oppositions, and constantly struggled with the Devil. This is where Luther famously threw his inkpot against the wall, the marks of which have long since been vandalized/chipped away by previous Luther(f)ans. Luther left the castle in March of 1522 when he returned to Wittenburg by request of the town council to put an end to the insurrections happening as a result of the Reformation.

Easily the prettiest part of the castle, however, was the Elizabeth Room and the Upper Banquet Hall. We had a great tour guide who kept saying very funny things in a German accented English like, "Over thirty persent of dese stones are origginal" and "I only have vun question: do you like?" and "Are your eyes popping out of zee head?" And in truth, they were.

Constance admires the patterned mosaic of the Elizabeth Room

Detail of the Ceiling in the Elizabeth Room

The highlight of the visit, of course, is to see the room where Luther actually stayed, which you enter on your own (i.e, without a guide), at the end, and through a long and low tunnel (a medieval European was on average 3 inches shorter than today's average European, we're told)

The Long Walk To Luther's Room
(duck your head)


Luther's Room in the Wartburg
(none of the furnishings in the room are original...)

(...except allegedly the whale verterbrae footstool, or does that sound fishy?)

While many students could have stayed on the castle grounds all day, we had to leave in time to see the house of J. S. Bach. Bach, an avid Luther follower himself, was a prime example of how people used to dedicate their work and passions to furthering Christ's Kingdom. It was intriguing to learn how much spiritual inspiration was behind all of his masterpieces.

Genevieve Rocks The Bach House from the Outside

While Channing Rocks in Her Laid Bach Acoustic Chair on the Inside

...while Bach himself just stands there (silently)

After sleeping through most of the Bach museum tour (to be fair, students were very tired from a very long day), students got re-energized on local gelato and took another picture at the Eisenach Luther statue.

Wheaton College Students at the Luther Statue in Erfurt
(again with the ML gang signs...)

Then we continued to Erfurt via train. When we eventually reached the hotel after being misdirected by the hotel concierge in Eisenach, we all dispersed for dinner and finally said goodnight to our long, long day.

Christian and Vievie asleep on the train
(yes, the picture itself is sleeping format-wise;
no, the train is not ascending vertically)


Ladies and Gentleman of the Jury: Exhibits A, B, and C

A. Christ as "the door" inside the classic vesica piscis form at the Wartburg
B. Room service door hanger at the hotel with "Feed My Soul" slogan
C. Bathtub behind the door in the classic vesica piscis form at the Radisson Blu Erfurt

Coincidence?

And the bath itself? Well, let's just say, after the day we had... it felt like being born again.

Friday, 20 May 2011

Cell Phone Number for Emergency Contact

This is the "kein schnick-schnack" type of phone, which is to say it is a cell phone that makes calls, receives calls, and does very little else. These are getting harder to find these days.

Meanwhile, here's the number in Germany, in case you need to reach me. When we get to Switzerland, I'll put a different SIM card chip in and it will be an altogether different number.

011 41 170 265 1039


Thursday, 19 May 2011

Here We Stand -- The Diet of Worms




In front of the Martin Luther statue in Worms
(ML gang signs courtesy of Wheaton creativity)

We got another early start today as we headed over to Worms on the train. The Martin Luther memorial and St. Peter's Cathedral were the only two places we visited. Our first stop was at the memorial, where there were statues of Luther and other significant figures of the Reformation.

St Peters Cathedral

Only a short walk away from the memorial stood the majestic St. Peter's Cathedral. Even after having experienced the grandeur of the churches in Mainz and Frankfurt, this cathedral still knocked us off our feet as we stared in awe. This was the parish where Luther was called to recant 41 of his 95 theses in front of the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles the Fifth, at the infamous Diet of Worms. While we didn't get to see the exact location of his trial, just seeing the church's wealth and power displayed by its size and interior adornments, the students were able to better conceptualize how radical and revolutionary the Reformation really was.

Clock tower in Worms
(Numbers above, Astrological signs below)

We then headed back through Worms and stopped at a Turkish restaurant in town. The paintings on the inside walls were nothing like we'd seen in the traditional restaurants we'd eaten in previously; they beautifully portrayed what most imagine the romanticized version of the Middle East to look like. It was interesting to see first-hand the rise of Turkish influence on Germany as more and more Turks are immigrating to the country. After finishing our cross-cultural meals, we headed back to Mainz on the train and enjoyed our last night by the peaceful Rhine River.

Walkway along the Rhine in Mainz

Wednesday, 18 May 2011

Frankfurt Communication Museum


Frankfurt, Germany

The group rose early today so we could catch a regional train to Frankfurt (after indulging at breakfast of course). One of the students had a first-hand experiential learning experience as to the impact of the clock this morning. Not knowing what time it was and not wanting to be late, she showered and washed her clothes, ready to go for the day, only to be told by her roommate that it was only 4:30 AM! Lesson #1 on the effects of media/lack thereof learned.


Waiting for the train (70's-style images courtesy of Jono Seneff's iPhone app)

At the Frankfurt Communication Museum

The Frankfurt Communication Museum is one of about 12 museums along the river, and easily among the best of the lot. They do an excellent job of portraying communication history before and after the electronic age, the moment at which the speed of communication was severed from the speed (and constraint) of transportation. Architecturally laid out in a circular pattern, you can take in as much as you want, and the museum is equally compelling for kindergartners and grad students alike. There is always one or two rotating/traveling exhibitions on the top floor, and this year it was on communication theorist Claude Shannon as well as an exhibit entitled "Dialogue in Stillness" about being deaf. The museum also has the original Marconi wireless cables sent between the Titanic, the Carpathia, and the California on the night of the tragic sinking of the Titanic.

All we like sheeple... (the black sheep was around the corner)

One of the original key boards

And then for lunch, we had some original, strange, and delicious German food at
Zum Gemalten Haus at the Schweizer Platz stop, not far from the museums.
Zum Gemalten Haus, offering Green Sauce,
Cow Tongue, and Hand Cheese with Music!
MMM Good

Before leaving Frankfurt, several students toured Saint Bartholomew's Cathedral, a massive Gothic cathedral constructed from the middle of the 14th Century to the middle of the 15th Century. The building was first destroyed in 1867 by a fire, rebuilt, and then, like so many other structures in Germany, destroyed in World War Two by allied bombing -- and then rebuilt once again. Starting in 1356, it was the place where the Holy Roman Emperors were crowned and later served as a symbol for the national unity of Germany. Today, it is more of a tourist destination than anything else. After leaving the cathedral, we headed back to Mainz, where we stayed for the rest of the evening.

St. Bartholomew's Cathedral


Tuesday, 17 May 2011

First Day in Mainz



Demonstration printing press at the Gutenberg Museum

While hot showers and cozy beds all had us in good spirits, the Mainzerhof Hotel's continental breakfast was phenomenal. The buffet was stacked with fruits, vegetables, yogurt, salmon, cheeses, croissants, muesli, and many other delicacies. The best part according to many students, however, was the bowl of Nutella packets, a personal favorite of theirs.
Pleased and plumped, we explored the churches in Mainz, a city recovering from its 80% destruction by allied bombing in World War Two. Our first stop was at the Evangelische Christuskirche, or the Evangelistic Church of Mainz. (In Germany, Evangelistic is synonymous with Protestant.) Built in 1903 then reconstructed in 1954, it is an impressive sight from the outside but sparse on the inside, a visual reminder of the 'sola scriptura' for spiritual influence as opposed to symbols, icons, statues and adornments of the Catholic Churches.
Evangelistic Church of Mainz
We then walked to downtown Mainz where we saw the remains of the church Gutenberg attended, St. Christoph's Church, which was built in the 9th Century. The last, as well as the most aesthetically impressive, church we visited was the Mainzerdom. Inside a small chapel off the side of the sanctuary hangs one of the oldest crucifixes in Germany. The Dom's presence dominates the downtown skyline, where a wonderful fresh air market provided us with meat, cheese, honey, pickles, and fresh bread for our evening picnic. It was striking to see the juxtaposition between old and modern Europe, with new BMWs and Mercedes sharing the streets with such old structures.
The Mainzer Dom
We spent the afternoon going through the Gutenberg Museum (see separate post) and then eating a traditional German picnic on the bank of the Rhine River.

View over the Rhine during our picnic








Monday, 16 May 2011

Safely Arrived


I keep telling myself: "Direct Flight next year! Direct Flight next year!" and I keep ignoring my own advice based on cost, which after all was said and done, was a nominal savings. Going through security at Terminal 5 in Heathrow just so you could stay in Terminal 5 before getting on your connecting flight is miserable, especially with kid in backpack and babe in arms. The students did great, no one got lost, confused, misplaced a passport, or anything. But I'm not getting any younger, and it has me muttering the same thing I did this time last year; "Direct flight next year!" Still and all, it was nice to have a proper English breakfast at Huxley's while waiting for our flight to Frankfurt.

British Airways gave us good flights twice in a row and we also discovered upon landing -- surprise of surprises -- good weather in Germany! An auspicious beginning. (Last year almost two out of three days were rainy, by comparison.) Plus our travel agent put us smack across the street from the Evangelische Christuskirche in Mainz, so we're definitely feeling our Protestant roots while staying literally in the shadow of this church:


We're sleeping in late tomorrow morning, the only time we're doing so until the end of the trip. And tomorrow I'll get a cheap Euro-cell-phone kit to put together, and then post the number. Meanwhile, if you need to find us, here are the dates and hotels we'll be staying in:

4 nights in Mainz at Hotel Mainzerhof ~ May 16-20
Hotel Mainzerhof
Kaiserstraße 98
55116 Mainz, Germany
Tel. (011 49) 6131 28899-0

2 nights in Erfurt ~ May 20 – 22
Radisson Blu Hotel Erfurt
Juri-Gagarin-Ring 127
99084 Erfurt
Tel: (011 49) 361/ 5510 0

2 nights at Hostel in Berlin ~ May 22 – 24
Comebackpackers
Adalbertstrasse 97
10999 Berlin
Tel: (011 49) 30 600 57 52

2 nights in Nuremberg at Lette’m Sleep Hostel ~ May 24-26
Lette’m Sleep Hostel
Frauentormauer 42
90402 Nuremberg, Germany
Tel. (011 49)911 9928128

2 nights in Stuttgart at Stuttgart Inter-Hostel ~ May 26 – May 28
Inter-Hostel Stuttgart
Paulinenstraße 16
70178 Stuttgart
Tel. (011 49) 711 / 66 48 27 97
E-Mail:
info@inter-hostel.com

3 overnights Munich Youth Hostel ~ May 28 -31
CVJM-YMCA Jugendgaestehaus
Landwehrstr. 13, D-80336 Muenchen
Tel.: (011 49) (89) 5521410
hotel@cvjm-muenchen.org & mailto:hotel@cvjm-muenchen.org

2 overnights Bellinzona at Youth Hostel ~ May 31- June 2
SJH Ostello "Montebello"
Hostelling International
Via Nocca 4
CH - 6500 BELLINZONA
Tel.: (011 41) 91 825 15 22
E-mail:
bellinzona@youthhostel.ch & mailto:bellinzona@youthhostel.ch

2 nights Zermatt at Youth Hostel Zermatt ~ June 2-4
Jugendherberge Zermatt "Winkelmatten"
Staldenweg 5
3920 Zermatt (VS)
Tel: (011 41) 27 967 23 20
zermatt@youthhostel.ch

1 night Ballenberg at Abplanalp Brienzwiler ~ June 4
Christian & Irene ABPLANALP
BnB Bifing
Eichhof
CH-3856 Brienzwiler (BE)
Tel. (011 41) 33 951 14 51
or (011 41) 33 951 72 51
Cell (011 41) 79 434 43 70

2 nights Geneva at Hotel Central ~ June 5-7
Hôtel Central
2, rue de la Rôtisserie
CH-1204 Genève
Tél.(011 41) 22 818 81 00
info@hotelcentral.ch & mailto:info@hotelcentral.ch

1 night Huemoz – lodging at L'Abri ~ June 7
Chalet Bellevue, 1814 Huemoz, CH
Tel. (011 41) 24 495 2139


2 nights Bern at Bern Youth Hostel ~ June 8-10
Jugendherberge Bern
Weihergasse 4
3005 Bern (BE)
Tel. (011 41) 31 326 11 11
bern@youthhostel.ch

2 nights Basel at Basel Youth Hostel St. Albans ~ June 10-12
Jugendherberge Basel St. Alban
St. Alban-Kirchrain 10
4052 Basel (BS)
Tel: (011) 41 61 272 05 72
basel@youthhostel.ch <mailto:basel@youthhostel.ch>

3 nights Zurich ~ June 12-15
Zürich Youth Hostel
Mutschellenstrasse 114
8038 Zürich (ZH)
Tel: (011 41) 43 399 78 00
zuerich@youthhostel.ch


Please note that all phone numbers are listed when dialing from the USA.

Sunday, 15 May 2011

Stop the presses, we're coming over to see them...

It Starts In Mainz





How did the printing press, the clock, and their subsequent effects alter medieval life, impact society and religion, and ultimately lead to modernity? This tour will take us, in Dr. Matt Lundin's memorable phrase, "from Gutenberg to Google" via a 30-day tour of Luther's Germany and Calvin's Switzerland, with several stops along the way from the medieval to the modern (and postmodern) moment.





Especially central to this year's trip will be the legacy of "the machine" and its evolution, and especially as its unintended consequences (or side-effects) march into nation-state and economic growth, political machines of propaganda, and what Charlie Chaplin called the "machine men" of the 20th century.
In other words, how did we go from what Neil Postman calls a "technocracy" to a "technopoly" in just 500 years, from local town to global village, and back again, sort of, to "glocal" mindset, and why do so many of the answers to those questions lie in the heart of Germany and Franco-German Switzerland? Along the way we'll see everything from the medieval village to the modern automobile manufacturing plant, from the interchangeable part to the concentration camp, and from the sites of the dictators to those of the loving resistance fighters.

But today's agenda is very very simple:

Boeing 777, the latest in technological progress

1. Departure at 8pm from Chicago O'Hare on British Airways
2. Transfer in London/Heathrow
3. Arrive Frankfurt, Germany on May 16th, 2011 at 16:35 local time.
4. Get to Mainz by train.
5. Sleep.

Thanks for joining us virtually.
We'll try to post daily.